Log cabins are a trend. It’s an ideal option and there are a lot of styles that you can pick from and this is what makes the option such an interesting one. When you purchase at wholesale, you are able to spend much less. This option is most suitable for anyone who’s willing to buy their logs at a cost that is fair. It is also ideal for anyone who wishes to build many houses at exactly the same time.
The main thing is to shop carefully and to compare the prices from other companies in order to find the one offering the finest quality at the fairest prices. You can purchase and then ship the only things that you need for the job at hand.
Building for less
Building can be an experience that is not only rewarding, but also fun as well for your entire family. If you do not plan, it can also turn out to be a nightmare. When you buy a kit that has everything included it can actually cost you more than when you buy the materials for yourself.
To avoid this additional expense, it’s reasonable to buy the logs at wholesale and save some money. You can have these shipped to you and taken right to the website.
There are several suppliers who can meet your buying needs at the lowest prices. As you make the purchase, it’s important to ensure that you can be able to customize the option and meet the specifications that you really need.
The best suppliers need to have a great reputation in the industry. Prior to purchasing, it’s important to ensure they’re well known and that their products are of the highest quality. Such suppliers can actually assist you in planning and estimating the cost of the structure. It is always important to look at the prices so as to have the ability to compare the sort of savings that you will be able to make.
These kinds of structures are excellent for home offices, and excellent garden buildings. It’s important to ensure that they are spacious and with a calm environment. You can also choose them as a vacation home, or even a permanent home. The thick materials used help to make certain that they can be used throughout the year. Therefore, the thickness is among the most important things that should be considered.
The most important thing when making the purchase is understanding just what you need. It’s important to make your specifications quite clear and include all of the features which you deem to be essential for you.
A fire is required in just about any backpacking, hiking, or camping survival situation. It can look like a simple task building a campfire, but most men and women struggle building one. Furthermore, it may be more difficult to construct a campfire if you run out of matches. Whether it’s a campfire for cooking or for providing heat during cold nights, it’s essential that you know the proper way to build a campfire, with or without games, when camping.
Nothing beats the taste and appeal of foods cooked over the campfire. The freedom to cook over an open fire today is a privilege due to restricted regions of camping and declining firewood stocks in many campgrounds. This calls for extreme caution and respect.
Pay attention to the floor where the fire is going to be lit before beginning to prepare the fire place. It is recommended you build the fire over a rock. In case it is not possible on a rock, you should be sure that the base of the fire is on a bare mineral soil. The fire will be burning all evening, thus will have a great deal of time to burn through the organic layer of the soil. When the time comes to put out the fire, a simple bucket of water won’t do-have a fire extinguishing mechanism in place. First, look out for previously established pits, if any, before scarring the area with more fire pits.
Campfire for cooking needs to be clean, and burning hot. Getting green wood from trees will not bear fruit as its fire burn badly and create unnecessary smoke. You can pack in dry wood to carry along in case it will not be available. Call ahead to see what is available as many people campgrounds supply firewood.
Strong winds are poisonous in cooking. And may cause sparks getting away, which can spark forest fire. Strong winds reduce firewood fast and offer much less cooking time. Thus, a wind shelter is necessary to daunt important winds from interfering with your cooking.
These are small materials that ignite easily and fast with a spark. The material need to be dry and finely shredded as possible.
Medium-sized substances that could catch fire from tinder, quickly. Kindling may include little twigs, dry leaves, larger pieces of barks, or sticks. Kindling material has to be dry, small items in order to catch fire.
Building a Campfire for Cooking
When building a campfire for cooking, the purpose is to have the timber turn to coal at precisely the same time. This would produce an even fire with no flames going up to the food or blackening your cookware. This also builds the longest cooking time from the fire produced.
The fire site should be located at least 8″ from any combustibles. Ensure no tree branches hang round the site. Use green logs or massive rocks to make a U-shaped perimeter around the fire area. If using logs for the perimeter, have them wetted down from time to time. In the event of a breeze, have back end of fire place face the wind. Create some kind of chimney; you can have a big flat rock put at the rear of the fire place, to help direct the smoke up and away.
Laying the Kindling
Spread the fire area with tinder. Put kindling material over the tinder in layers, interchanging direction with every layer. You can employ use of thin splits of wood or small dead branches. Do not place kindling stuff the”teepee style”. Cover the entire fire area with the kindling heap. To start the fire, light the tinder material.
Blazing the Fire and Grading the Coals
When the kindling material is ablaze, add firewood. The wood should have the identical size, as far as possible. It is possible to use wood or wood branches. Spread wood evenly over the fire bed. When flames start to die down leaving largely white coals, remove the white coals by shoving them in the lower level at the front and rear end in a higher level. This would level the remaining coal to your liking. Set rocks or wetted green logs around the fire for placing the grill or toaster for cooking.
Even though the tepee method is much more popular, the log cabin procedure is the best for cooking.
Log Cabin Method
First, you build a small tepee of tinder and kindling in the center of your fireplace. Then stack wood logs a foot or less apart in an interchanging pattern around the tepee in the shape of a square. The distance between logs allows for air flow from bottom to top of the fireplace. Build the timber logs as large as you would like. Light the kindling in the center. You can blow into the tepee if the fire struggles to set ablaze or dig small air holes beneath the base logs. Keep the fire at a fair and safe size.
This is achieved by building a solid log cabin, with the largest logs at the bottom and something about the size of your wrist on top. The platform is for those who want a wonderful bed of coals to cook . You don’t need to wait for all of it to burn down before you start cooking.
The platform procedure is known as”upside down” fire when bigger logs are used. It is maintained for its ability to burn for a long time, unattended. Remember to put the biggest logs on the bottom and scale to smaller stuff on top. Light fire on top. As you practice, you will figure out the perfect size of wood needed to make fire that burns on its own, all night.
It can be slightly difficult learning how to create campfire using platform procedure. The trick is to produce a large enough teepee on top so as to create a bed of coals that will be capable of burning through the first layer, igniting it, building a larger bed of coals etc..
The Tepee Method
Compact the tinder to a ball formation, about 4″ in diameter. Then place it in the middle of the fire place. Stack the kindling material to a corn formation, around the tinder. Lean wood logs on the kindling. Leave an opening at the teepee for light the pile of tinder from the bottom with matches. The fire spreads to the kindling and logs once the tinder lights; providing you a great campfire. You can blow softly on the fire to get it spread to the kindling and wood. In case the fire goes out, add more tinder or kindling. When the blaze is moving, keep adding logs from the tepee pattern.
Never build your campfire closer than 6 feet from your shield, near low-hanging branches, or vegetation.
There are a whole lot of ways to construct campfire, but the important thing here is to practice, find the method that suits your cooking and you’re comfortable with. You can even customize the fire to your unique needs on a given night, Practicing the hard way, with Ferro rod, knife and tinder, and leaning to prepare your own wood with limited tools helps develop vital skills for survival.
To many people, tarantulas are disgustingly revolting because they’re hairy, stocky, and fearsome-looking. . .But to other individuals, they are TERRIFIC! Despite their reputations, most tarantulas are harmless to people and are popular in exotic pet trade. There are no true tarantulas that are known to have a bite that is deadly to humans.
. .Yup, that is what I said!
Tarantulas range in colours from brown, black and grey (very drab) to excitingly colorful varieties of metallic blue, white and black, bright orange, and cobalt blue.
Tarantulas are very often hairy and rather large. They do not spin webs, unless they live in a tube, because they hunt their prey on the ground. If they live in a tunnel, they are known to line that tunnel with web to catch wandering prey. They use their speed and ambush capabilities to catch different spiders and insects. Larger varieties are even know to catch lizards, birds and rodents.
My Story: When I lived in Australia back in 1994-95, I was on the phone with my mum in Canada as I had been wandering around the house. All of a sudden, I let out a massive scream and dropped the phone. I return to pick up the phone to explain to her that I just walked into the restroom. In the bottom of the bathtub was a big, hairy spider about the size of a saucer (like it’s legs), and it was making a sound and leaping about 1 1/2 ft into the air.
I was so petrified, I did not know what to do. My mom was scared on the opposite end of the phone as I got a clear plastic container and hauled some holes into the bottom of it, and covered it up in the bathtub until my roommates came home, who were native Aussies…
They believed it was so funny that I was so scared, but I had never seen one before, being from Canada! They safely let it outside for me. Not my cup of tea, but many people loves these little guys! I wish I’d have considered taking a photograph of it!
Tarantulas rely on their thick exoskeleton for protection and support. The body length of tarantulas vary from 2.5 – 10 cm (1-4 inches), with 8-30 cm (3 to 12 inch) leg spans (their size when adding their legs).
Conservation Status: For the most part, tarantulas are doing well. However, the Mexican red-knee tarantula is on the Critically Endangered list according to WWF. This is because urbanization, increasing tourism, and exploitation of wildlife are high-intensity threats to the region, as are road construction, perennial plantations, and ranching.
With”That is just the way it is”. Elephants are gray, canaries are yellow, so why should not flamingos be pink? Well, there really is a very good reason.
First of all, young flamingos are not pink, they are gray (like an elephant) for about the first few decades of life, and they turn pink. Not all adult flamingos are pink either, though most are either pink or a shade of red near pink. Of the five species of flamingo in life, the Caribbean flamingo, is truly a very bright crimson red. In general, adult flamingos are red, pink, or somewhere in between. That still begs the question however, “Why are Flamingos Pink”.
Genetics would seem to be the obvious answer, but it is not the best one. There’s the old saying”You are what you eat”, and flamingos are pink due to their diet. If you place a flamingo in captivity, and give it something to eat instead of its usual diet, the bird will so start to lose its coloring, and become more white than pink. The fact that we do not see more white flamingos in zoos is because the zookeepers are careful to provide the flamingos a distinctive flamingo food, containing all the nutrients they would get in their natural habitats.
A flamingo’s diet is high in beta-carotene, the same substance we consume when we eat carrots. Among other things, flamingos eat crustaceans, especially shrimp. Their natural habitat is in shallow lakes and wetlands, where fish have a tendency to thrive. Flamingos also eat algae, another source of beta-carotine and carotenoid pigments (red). When you think of it, somebody who likes carrots and eats a few a day can take on a slightly orange hue for their complexion. That actually happens, and isn’t unhealthy though it may seem so.
, you can honestly say it’s because they eat shrimp. You can go into some detail with the cartenoid piece if you desire, but for our purposes, just saying fish should suffice. Then if you’re pressed, you can cite cartenoids and beta-carotine, as if that’s something everybody should already know!
If the person still doesn’t believe your answer, you can let them know that flamingos also fly and march, two more details about flamingos that are true. We are so used to seeing flamingos from the zoo just standing on one leg (it is the most comfortable way for them to stand), or as lawn ornaments in the area, we forget they’re quite capable of flight, and in fact fly from one place to another in enormous flocks. Insofar as marching is concerned, should you find a group (actually a colony) of flamingos on the floor, and observe them over a period of time, you will eventually see them march. You will know it when you see it.
It’s just as versatile as it is cheap and it can be served with a number of different sauces. Sadly, this is a simple carbohydrate meaning that your body breaks it down and burns it fast. As such, it is gotten a negative reputation among the weight loss community. After, however, are several incredible reasons why this delicious dish should be made a routine part of your daily diet.
For busy people, this is one of the most portable foods on the market. For instance, if you regularly pack your lunch for work, it is easy to store this in a coverage dish and rewarm it in lunch time. This will offer a hearty, filling meal that will provide you a great deal of energy and at a minimal price. Bringing leftover pasta to function is infinitely less expensive than paying to have someone in a regional deli make your lunch for you.
Another major benefit which you can gain from this food is the capacity to make vegetables tasty. As an example, if you have a difficult time getting your kids to consume a great deal of produce, this is a great way to sneak a vibrant selection of nutrient-dense veggies into your kid’s meals. Your child will hardly know that you have diced up peppers, zucchini, tomatoes and olives to this dish.
There is no way to overstate the fact that pasta is remarkably cheap. Moreover, one small box can go a very long way. For families that are constantly trying to eke it out, this is the perfect food for ensuring that everybody is able to sate themselves at dinnertime, every time.
Bodybuilders load up on this carbohydrate with good reason. It breaks down to lots of usable energy. Whether you’re presently working in the gym to build up your mass or just need more fuel to get you through the day, begin munching on this simple food at lunch time and you’ll find that you have more stamina and better focus for hours on end.
People should be aware they don’t always have to cook this dish at home so as to recognize its many remarkable benefits. You can enjoy how simple, portable, flavorful and filling pasta is by simply taking your family out to a restaurant which serves Italian food. Best of all, you can take any leftovers you must lunch with you the next day, so you may enjoy the succulent and perfectly blended flavors of this popular cuisine all over again.
Salamanders can actually live for a very long time. In fact, a number of them can live for up to 25 years. However, this can only be achieved if you take good care of your furry friend salamander. If you want your pet to live a longer life, then below are a few tips on how to care for your salamander properly:
Number 1: Before you acquire a salamander, you want to secure a particular collection permit from your local division of wildlife and conservation department. Your local authority may be issuing this permit to allow you to keep a salamander in your home.
A tank that measures 1×2 feet is enough for a little to midsize salamander. However, it is possible to go to as large as 3×4 feet. It should be tight enough to maintain the salamander from penetrating.
Number 3: Make sure you fill the tank with soil or sand for about 4 inches deep. Dig a hole in the sand and put a bowl of water in it. You may also use an old cake pan or loaf bread pan so that it is going to fit well with the height of the sand. You need to provide an appropriate substrate for burrowing too.
Number 4: Put fresh water into the container. Salamander loves to stay in damp, dark and green areas; hence you may place green plants inside the tank. When you add water inside the tank, the runoff will eventually keep the sand moist.
Number 5: Safe rocks and other things that can be utilised as colors like driftwoods and leaves and put it inside your tank. But, make sure you put it in an organized manner so that it will not ruin your set up.
Number 6: Salamanders produce excess waste. If you are unable to do this, ammonia will lodge inside the tank causing your tank to be polluted.
Number 7: See to it that your tank is dry for terrestrial terrarium, but maintain your substrate slightly moist. If you are keeping semi-aquatic salamanders, be certain that the land part is moist, but not submerged in water. In the meantime, the water on the wet-side must always be clean.
Number 8: Salamanders can be kept in room temperature. Normally, salamanders have sensitive skin and they have the tendency to acquire chemicals instantly. Hence, they don’t need certain UV lights. Rather, see to it that you rotate the daylight and dark cycle to mimic their natural surroundings.
Having a pet in your home can wipe out your stress and give you a different feeling of happiness. Surely, you’ll find a worthwhile moment with your own salamander. However, as soon as you have your own salamander, make sure you don’t forget your responsibilities as a pet owner. Take good care of your salamanders well so that they will live long and happily together with you.
Iguanas are magnificent reptiles and possessing them means knowing them. Knowing about them will make caring for them so much easier. I strongly recommend doing your own research as sadly some pet stores will let you know what you want to hear in order to make”the sale”.
I strongly recommend beginning your iguana out in a 20 gallon aquarium (or its equal). Before bringing him/her home, ensure the enclosure is ready for housing. Ensure your iguana enclosure has UVA and UVB lighting, heat lamp (I do not recommend”heat stones” as reptiles in general tend to stay on them and can burn), hide box (babies will conceal ) and a water container large enough for your iguana to completely submerge in (they love water).
After bringing your iguana home, place it in it is already ready enclosure and let it settle in for a day or so. It’s imperative to allow your new addition to acclimate to its new surrounding. This can help”tame” your iguana making him/her more trusting and secure.
Being a tropical to sub-tropical species of reptile, higher humidity within the enclosure will be essential (80% or higher), as is proper temperature. Temperature during the day will have to be approximately 88 – 93 degrees (f). Use a UVB”black light” to accomplish this and put it on the other side of this”day” lamp.
Don’t be alarmed if your iguana shy’s away from food for the first few days. This is quite common until acclimated to its new environment. It’s still vital to put their food inside their enclosure. Start them out with finely cut romaine lettuce and red cabbage (they love romaine lettuce) for a few days. This will”break them in” and prompt them to feed.
*80% vegetables (clover, romaine lettuce, squash, green beans, peas, mustard greens, collard greens, kale and turnip greens).
*10% fruits (melons, bananas, grapes, strawberries, apples and pears). One flower to avoid is the azalea.
In its simplest form: 80% vegetables + 10% veggies + 10% blossoms = 100% nutrition!
Keeping your iguana enclosure clean is quite important! If their enclosure is dirty, your iguana can become vulnerable to parasites. Parasites can and eventually will lead to illness or worse kill your iguana (s). If you see fecal matter, rotting food, or clouding in their own water, clean the enclosure immediately.
In conclusion, Mimicking nature is the surest way of keeping your iguana healthy and happy.
As time goes by, you won’t think that your once little lizard is now as long as you. Once your iguana matures, you’ll feel as if he/she is part of the family!
The last step is to locate a excellent exotic vet for your iguana. It’s wonderful to know that if something should go wrong, you have an exotic veterinarian who knows your iguana and what is needed to keep them happy and healthy.
Some substrates are regarded as safer than others, while some are downright dangerous. There are a few that people have varying viewpoints on, such as sand.
Your lizards will not succeed on bare glass, so it is a good idea to provide them with something to live on. There are lots of different options available, from paper to sand to stone to wood chips. You can discover many of them in your home or local pet shop. However, don’t assume security.
Some are more suitable than others, and some are really hazardous to your lizard and can cause considerable health problems. Do not assume that just because a substrate is supplied in the pet store, it will be safe. Even bedding branded for leopard geckos may not be a good idea.
Leopard geckos should not be housed on cedar or pine, as these aromatic woods are poisonous to them, and to almost every other small animal kept as a pet. The substances that keep these wood chips smelling good are also toxic when inhaled in large quantities or when eaten.
Bear in mind that there is a fantastic chance your pet will consume some of its substrate when it catches insects, or in an effort to maximize its calcium levels.
This tendency is one reason that some people choose to bed their lizards on particular calcium-rich sand, as it provides a calcium supplement when ingested, and will not be poisonous. However, there’s some debate about the digestibility of the substrate, as well as concern over using other forms of sand, because they can cause blockages of the digestive tract.
If sand is chosen, make sure it’s the finest sand you can find, as opposed to a coarser builder’s sand, and provide regular and copious calcium supplementation to dissuade your lizard from eating it. Lots of people successfully keep their animals on sand without any problems, but they must pay careful attention.
If using paper, such as newspaper or paper towels, be sure that it’s sterile, or any inks used are non-toxic. Just remove the paper and add fresh substrate whenever it’s dirty. It is not a very natural looking option, however.
Bark is usually a poor option, being hard to clean and easy to consume. Reptile carpet, specially made to be used with snakes and lizards, is a washable, easy to clean substrate that comes pre cut into the most popular tank sizes, but doesn’t offer a natural appearance.
Some people also choose to use slate or ceramic tiles, since these are relatively natural in appearance (unglazed ceramic is better for this than glazed) and offer horizontal basking surfaces without the danger of substrate ingestion.
No matter what substrate you opt to use, make sure it’s clean and free of harmful objects or substances before placing it into your terrarium. Decide whether you want to simply be able to wash it, or if you’ll want to replace it if its dirty, and if a natural look is a big priority. This will say the best bedding for your geckos.
Every year, ball python breeders are coming out with a new colour or pattern morph to satisfy the needs of keepers and breeders alike. Over the last few years, there has been a surge in producing various pattern or color morphs, which would be the envy of the snake world. These can cost upwards of tens of thousands of dollars. There are still plenty of normal ball pythons being bred in captivity for the pet but there’s definite change in the market.
More and more people today are keeping reptiles; specifically snakes in general as pieces of living art. From the late eighties, there was a man who changed the thinking of reptile keepers everywhere with a book called The Art of Snake Keeping. Philippe de Vosjoli has been a source of not only reptile keeping information but also a source of inspiration for many keepers today. Philippe educated us then and now that a natural environment is the very best way to celebrate our reptiles.
Reptile collectors today are not satisfied purchasing a snake, placing it into a fish tank with a screen lid, and a heater. They see their reptiles as an investment and wish to display them, as they want a Picasso painting. We still see the usual buyers of reptiles within the pet industry but there’s a definite increasing percentage of individuals who are purchasing the higher wind or more costly morphs so as to create their personal artistic statement in there home or office.
Solving the mystery
Keepers are way more knowledgeable today as all of us are about the maintenance specifics of reptiles. Over the last three decades, many individuals have learned, with much more knowledge about their chosen reptile they could make informed decisions about which product(s) will provide them not only a better environment but also a better means of reptile keeping. Nowadays more keepers are recognizing it is not about just captive care of reptiles in general, but about the natural history of the entire genre, which is currently making a difference in the way they keep their snakes. Using the ball python for instance, many keepers thought for years that this species was just a fossorial snake. Now we know that ball pythons from some areas climb into small shrubs and spend time there off the floor. With the trend of creating a more natural environment for our snakes we are observing new behaviors; I would be willing to say, if the reptiles were bred under those conditions we would also see an increasing trend towards better breeding success.
Product manufacturers are also more aware of this increasing trend also. They now produce a better line of goods to fulfill the requirements of the discerning keeper. Together with the manufacturers understanding just as much if not more about our reptiles, we’re no longer looking through a bay window onto a large environment but a microscope into the world that makes up the microenvironment of the reptiles we keep. With this knowledge, we are able to supply a far better captive environment, one highlighting the snake, as opposed to just keeping it alive.
Many parameters enter this type of environment. In the past, all we had were fish tanks with screen lids as I had mentioned earlier. Today we have plexiglass enclosures, which are simpler to maintain. Plexiglass not only is easier to heat but in addition, it holds the humidity necessary for keeping tropical species such as the ball python.
Aside from the advent of new materials such as plexiglass for the enclosure, we now have a firmer grasp on the understanding of plants, substrates, heaters, and several other pieces of equipment that need to maintain a healthy environment for our reptiles. Manufacturers taking advantage of the, are now producing some extraordinary products which make snake ownership possible for almost anyone who has an interest. With all this knowledge available to people we still see the most frequent mistake with the new snake keeper.
They buy the snake and what they believe are the perfect materials for the environment and then place all of this into the old kind of fish tank enclosure. The significant issue with keeping most tropical creatures in this sort of enclosure is that there is a huge amount of air exchange when screen lids are used. If you live in a dry area such as myself this sort of enclosure will require misting numerous times a day. This is a very time consuming process. If you’ve made a higher end investment this is a critical component of captive care to mist the snake and then monitor its environment. Using the right enclosure such as the ones made by Ricky’ s Reptile Enclosures will save you from having to go through this issue.
Now you know which enclosure to buy, but the fun does not stop there. These are cheap and easy to clean; therefore, they make sense for the breeder trying to keep costs to a minimum. Breeders use either pine shavings or newspaper to keep their snakes. The showcase snake though won’t be display properly on these substrates.
The Right Plant
The planted vivarium isn’t as hard as it may seem, it is really an issue of plant selection, placement, and the use of the right soils. I use organic potting soil that is pearlite free and landscape the enclosure so the rear of the enclosure is slightly graded or sloped towards the front. The organic potting soil is fine on its own but to really get a nice look to the total vivarium I place a layer of orchid bark or cypress mulch on top.
Not only do plants help create oxygen inside the enclosure, they also provide a level of humidity as does the soil/mulch mixture. With the ball python being such a’heavy bodied’ snake there is certain amount of concern with using plants in the enclosure lest they be crushed with a wandering snake. Delicate ferns and other similar plants will not stand up to a wandering P. regius.
We must also be cautious of any plants which may be toxic to a reptile. Not to mention the fact that several of the plant recommendations you see online sound great. However, what they do not tell you is that their recommendations are actually bushes that can become extremely large. As an example, 1 recommendation I saw was for Callistemon, which they also had misspelled as Callistemom commonly called bottlebrush. Most websites list this as a TREE, which gets 10-12 feet in height. The other one that struck me as odd was the recommendation of Bougainvillea, which has very sharp thorns among the limbs. Why would you recommend that for a reptile or amphibian enclosure?
Here’s a list of non-toxic plants that you could use without fear of them growing into trees or stabbing a drifting snake. Pothos Epipremnum pothos aureus, Liriope Lily turf, & Aspidistra Cast Iron plant are all plants that I have used within the vivarium itself and have not had any issue. Some mosses may be used as ground cover too but I have not used them before so I cannot make any recommendations . Aside from the plants, add a sandblasted grapevine bit angled from among the bottom corners of the enclosure into the opposite top corner diagonally so the snake can decide to be either higher or lower. I have yet to find a branch be provided that was not used at some stage.
You must also offer some type of hide area within the enclosure. Personally, I like the half logs which are offered for this purpose. Buy one that the snake can enter and when coiled their body should encounter the sides. This is a critical piece as it enables the snake to feel protected.